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Good
things to know:
Some might disagree with some of the
things I’m going to bring up but experience is a good teacher.
You may never have done them and your horses
do fine...for now.
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Feed Hay;
Eastern WA grass Vs. Alfalfa Vs. Local Hay
Grass
is higher in
fiber and more digestible (Usually)
Alfalfa is much higher in protein,
carbohydrates, calcium & low in fiber if the stems are not ingested
totally.
Local Grass Hay
Must be >60% green to be well
utilized by the horse.
Yellow grass hay is not digestible and does
cause impaction colic.
Foals &
yearlings should be given a grass(70%) alfalfa(30%) mix.
Adults only
need 10 to 12% protein in the diet.
Where as older
animals need higher fiber and lower carbohydrates.
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Supplements
You can over do a good thin
Here in the
NW we have several Vitamin/ Mineral deficiencies; ie. Selenium,
Cobalt, Mg, Zn, etc.
Complete supplements Vitamins, Minerals & grain.
Vitamin Mineral Mixes; no grain or fiber.
Not
all work for every horse
Three that work well are:
Weight gain
additions
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Rice Bran
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Beet pulp - Soaked – Spoils
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Oils – Canola or Soy
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NU Glow - pelleted Rice
Bran & omega 3 fatty acid oils
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LMF Primetime – complete supplement – Fiber, oils, Grains, Vits.
& minerals
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Water
– Heated waterier are great keeps water temp.
at 38 to40 degrees.
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Float or bottom
heaters.
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Some animals can get away with
drinking ice water and some can’t.
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Just because you have gotten
away with it doesn’t mean you luck will continue.
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Cold water colic drinking to
much cold water – Gut shut down.
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Impaction colic from not
drinking.
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Vaccinations; Flu/ Rhino in fall
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Tetnus. Flu, Rhino, EEE, WEE,
West Nile virus =/- Strangles
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Deworming;
Paste
– rotate, every 8 weeks:
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Ivemectin
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Pyrontal )Strongid)
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Anthelside
Ivermectin Spring & fall
....or use Daily
Strongid crumbles
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Dental care -good teeth leads to good condition.
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Extends life
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Decreases tooth loss
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Increases feed efficiency – saves money.
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Added comfort to the animal – oral ulcers. |
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Surfaces For
feeding:
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If you feed on dirt, sand or
gravel, you risk colic and intestinal damage
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Best is to feed on mats; you can hook them together with Zip
ties.
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Footing
MUD CONTROL Start in summer ie. Dry
weather
Gravel; spread in walking
& standing areas. ¾ minus crushed quarry rock.
Sand pile 10to 20 yards
Keeps
them high & dry
Amount
depends on the # of animals.
Puddle
Colic.
Slope; arrange paddocks so
that feed and water are at the high point.
NO HOG FUEL: it ends up
being a sponge that breeds bacteria & fungus
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Shelters; Not all animals will use them.
2 to 3
sided to block the wind.
On high ground or make it
so.
Solid base With MATS to
feed on.
Opening to face NE if
possible (if wind comes from the SE)
Gets morning sun.
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Blankets
Pros, keeps them dry and warm, reduces energy
requirements
Cons; good place for bugs to grow (Bacteria, Fungus, Rainrot.)
Blankets can get warm on sunny days & wet from sweat and
dark.
Blankets
must be taken off on warm days, washed and repaired.
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Feet Clean hoofs often when in wet muddy areas.
Treat with
strong iodine or some hoof care to prevent frog rot and white line
disease.
Shoes Vs. Bare foot
If you are not
using your animals in the winter taking the shoes off has some
advantages and major drawbacks.
If they have
good feet and don’t crack or split you may be lucky.
No shoes
and poor hoof structure
can lead to abscesses and White line disease – hoof wall separation
- loss of hoof wall.
IF bare foot,
keep trimmed – hoof growth depends on the animal and feeding.
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Manure Control
For hoof health acid breaks down hoof
GI stability
Decreases Parasite contamination
Fly and Mosquito
in the spring.
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